Two products, two jobs
Sweat starts out odourless. The smell comes from skin bacteria breaking down its components, and the warm, moist underarm suits them well.1 The two products work on different ends of that. In the EU's ingredient database, the antiperspirant function is "reducing perspiration", while the deodorant function is reducing or eliminating unpleasant odour.2 EU claims guidance calls them different products with different functions, and says comparing an antiperspirant's effect on wetness with a deodorant's is unfair.3 Many products do both jobs and are sold as deodorant-antiperspirants.1
Antiperspirants: aluminium salts
Antiperspirants rely on aluminium salts, which are thought to form a gel plug in the sweat duct that keeps sweat from reaching the skin.1 US rules list 18 permitted antiperspirant actives, all aluminium compounds, each with a maximum: 25% for salts such as aluminium chlorohydrate and aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, 20% for the aluminium zirconium salts, and 15% for aluminium chloride in a water-based, non-aerosol product.4
Ingredient names keep the American spelling, Aluminum, on EU labels too. CosIng lists Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate and Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly with antiperspirant, astringent and deodorant functions.567 EU law limits them in two Annex III entries:
- Aluminium zirconium chloride hydroxide complexes, glycine complexes included (Annex III, entry 50): antiperspirants only, at most 20% as the anhydrous complex and 5.4% as zirconium, not in aerosol sprays, and labelled "Do not apply to irritated or damaged skin".8
- Other aluminium-containing ingredients (Annex III, entry 381), added by Regulation (EU) 2026/909: at most 7.73% aluminium in non-aerosol antiperspirants or deodorants and 3.24% in aerosols. Products that do not comply may not be placed on the EU market from 1 January 2027, or made available from 1 July 2028.89
Those limits reflect a 2024 opinion of the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.9 The committee concluded that aluminium compounds are safe in non-spray products at the maximum levels it set, and in sprays at those levels provided fine particles stay below a set share. It also noted that combined exposure from cosmetics and food may exceed safe limits for consumers at the highest exposure levels.10 A label gives no concentrations, so it cannot show how close a product comes to any of these limits.
Deodorants: antimicrobials, fragrance and absorbers
A 2023 review describes three kinds of deodorant ingredient: antimicrobial agents that slow the growth of odour-forming bacteria, fragrance that masks odour, and odour absorbers.1 On a label they look like this:
- Antimicrobials. The review's examples include triclosan, propylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin.1 Ethylhexylglycerin carries a deodorant function in CosIng11, and triclosan is on the EU list of permitted preservatives, at up to 0.3% in certain products, non-spray deodorants among them (Annex V, entry 25).8
- Odour absorbers and other deodorant ingredients. The review names sodium bicarbonate as an odour absorber.1 Sodium Bicarbonate, Zinc Ricinoleate and Triethyl Citrate all carry a deodorant function in CosIng.121314
- Fragrance. Parfum, and named fragrance substances such as limonene, linalool, eugenol and geraniol, which the review lists among common odour-masking ingredients.1 Farnesol has deodorant and perfuming functions in CosIng15, and EU labels must name it above set levels (Annex III, entry 82).8 See EU fragrance allergen labels.
- Alcohol. Alcohol Denat. carries antimicrobial and solvent functions in CosIng16, and the review names ethanol as a common carrier in antiperspirants.1 Alcohol denat. in skincare explains the names.
Telling them apart on a label
In the US, a deodorant is a cosmetic, while a deodorant that is also an antiperspirant is both a cosmetic and a drug and must meet the rules for both.17 So an antiperspirant carries a Drug Facts box naming the active ingredient, its strength and its purpose18, a use such as "reduces underarm wetness", and warnings including "Do not use on broken skin" and "Ask a doctor before use if you have kidney disease".4 The cosmetic ingredients follow as inactive ingredients.17
In the EU both are cosmetics, so there is no Drug Facts box: the aluminium salt sits in the one ingredient list, which runs in descending order of weight down to 1%. The pack must also state the product's function unless its presentation makes that clear (Article 19).8
Ingredients: Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearyl Alcohol, PPG-14 Butyl Ether, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Dimethicone, Silica, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool.
- Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GlyReduces odor or sweat
- C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateSoftens and smooths
- Stearyl AlcoholSoftens and smooths
- PPG-14 Butyl EtherKeeps skin in good condition
- Hydrogenated Castor OilSoftens and smooths
- DimethiconeSoftens and smooths
- SilicaGives the texture
- ParfumAdds scent
- LimoneneAdds scent
- LinaloolAdds scent
An illustrative list, not a real product. The aluminium zirconium salt is the antiperspirant active; on a US pack it would appear as the active ingredient in a Drug Facts box. Parfum, Limonene and Linalool show it is scented.
Ingredients: Aqua, Alcohol Denat., Propylene Glycol, Triethyl Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Zinc Ricinoleate, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool.
- AquaDissolves other ingredients
- Alcohol Denat.Limits microbes
- Propylene GlycolHelps attract water
- Triethyl CitrateReduces odor or sweat
- EthylhexylglycerinReduces odor or sweat
- Zinc RicinoleateReduces odor or sweat
- ParfumAdds scent
- LimoneneAdds scent
- LinaloolAdds scent
An illustrative list, not a real product. No aluminium salt, so no antiperspirant active. Triethyl Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin and Zinc Ricinoleate carry deodorant functions, and Parfum, Limonene and Linalool are the scent.
"Aluminium free" and other claims
Every antiperspirant active the US rules allow is an aluminium compound4, so an aluminium-free product is not an antiperspirant there. In the EU, "free from aluminium" is a free-from claim: in the Commission's 2016 report, ten Member States had flagged claims such as "free from parabens" or "free from aluminium" as unfair because they denigrate legally authorised ingredients.19 What clean beauty means explains how EU guidance treats free-from claims. On a US label, "alcohol" on its own means ethyl alcohol, and a product called alcohol free may still contain fatty alcohols.20
What to look for on the label
- An aluminium salt, such as Aluminum Chlorohydrate or an Aluminum Zirconium name, marks an antiperspirant or a deodorant-antiperspirant.
- A Drug Facts box on a US pack, with the salt as the active ingredient and its percentage.
- The EU warning "Do not apply to irritated or damaged skin" with an aluminium zirconium salt.
- Parfum and named fragrance allergens on either kind, if you avoid fragrance.
The ingredient checker shows what each ingredient in a deodorant or antiperspirant does, and marks fragrance and named fragrance allergens. No list gives concentrations, so neither the label nor the checker can show how a product compares with the legal limits.
Sources
- Teerasumran P, Velliou E, Bai S, Cai Q. Deodorants and antiperspirants: new trends in their active agents and testing methods. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2023;45(4):426-443. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng: the functions of cosmetic ingredients and their definitions (83 functions), as the CosIng site serves them. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- Technical document on cosmetic claims, agreed by the Sub-Working Group on Claims and endorsed by the Working Group on Cosmetic Products (version of 3 July 2017), Annexes I to IV. Guidance for Regulation (EU) No 655/2013; not legally binding and not a European Commission document. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- US Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Part 350: Antiperspirant drug products for over-the-counter human use, sections 350.3, 350.10 and 350.50 (electronic CFR, text as of 7 October 2026). ecfr.gov Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE: INCI name, chemical name and functions (no annex reference listed in CosIng). ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ALUMINUM SESQUICHLOROHYDRATE: INCI name, chemical name and functions (no annex reference listed in CosIng). ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY: INCI name, description, functions and restriction (III/50). ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, consolidated text of 18 May 2026. The article or annex entry relied on is named in each sentence citing it. Official Journal of the European Union. eur-lex.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2026/909 of 27 April 2026 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards the use of Benzyl Salicylate, Triphenyl Phosphate, Ammonium Silver Zinc Aluminium Silicate, Aluminium, water-soluble zinc salts and other substances in cosmetic products: recitals 10 to 13 and the Annex III entry on aluminium-containing ingredients. eur-lex.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on the safety of aluminium in cosmetic products, Submission IV, SCCS/1662/23, final version of 27 March 2024 (conclusion as published on the Commission's page, 4 April 2024). health.ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN: INCI name, chemical name and functions (no annex entry). ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry SODIUM BICARBONATE: INCI name, chemical name and functions. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ZINC RICINOLEATE: INCI name, description and functions. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry TRIETHYL CITRATE: INCI name, description and functions. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry FARNESOL: INCI name, chemical name, functions and restriction (III/82). ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng entry ALCOHOL DENAT.: INCI name, description and functions. ec.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- US Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) (content current as of 11 September 2024). fda.gov Checked 11 October 2026.
- US Food and Drug Administration. The Over-the-Counter Drug Facts Label (content current as of 2 September 2026). fda.gov Checked 11 October 2026.
- European Commission. Report from the Commission to the European Parliament and the Council on product claims made based on common criteria in the field of cosmetics, COM(2016) 580 final, 19 September 2016, section 3.3 (results of Member States' market surveillance). eur-lex.europa.eu Checked 11 October 2026.
- US Food and Drug Administration. "Alcohol Free" (cosmetics labeling claims; content current as of 25 February 2022). fda.gov Checked 11 October 2026.
Written for this site from the sources above and checked against them on 11 October 2026. Not reviewed by a dermatologist or toxicologist, and not medical advice. Spotted something wrong? Tell us.